| Proper Evening Formal Dressing - Fall/Winter/Spring Season | ||
|---|---|---|
| Article | Black Tie (Called Tuxedo or Dinner Jacket) | White Tie (Called Tails or Full Dress) |
| Jacket | Black is preferred here, single or double-breasted. Double obviates cummerbund or vest. Best fabric is plain black worsted or barrethea. Stripings or jacquards should be avoided. Lapels can be rolled or peaked but must be black silk satin. | 'A tailor's greatest challenge.' Even a misplaced 1/4" can cause tails to spread or overlap. Fabrics same as tuxedo; black mandatory. Top mills offer fabric with small amounts of cashmere to enhance feel & drape. Lapels are black silk satin or grosgrain. |
| Trousers | Trousers always of same fabric as jacket. They should be made without cuffs. The satin side strip or braid is, today, considered optional. | Trousers always of same fabric as jacket. They should be made without cuffs. The satin side stripe or braid is, today, considered optional. |
| Waistcoat or Cummerbund | The waistcoat, if worn, is of white pique or black patterned silk. The cummerbund, of which black is most often seen, is more popular. Virtually any color or pattern is acceptable as this accessory is one of two permitting that dash of individuality. | Tails require the use of a waistcoat. The cummerbund will not do. Majority will be made of white birdseye pique in a single-breasted model although double-breasted is fine as well. Buttons preferred: Mother-of-Pearl. [See Accessories below] |
| Shirt | An area allowing an individual flair. Though standard pleats or pique are most common, many special or antique fronts can be had custom-made. Folding or wing collar is acceptable as are French or Link Cuffs. Three or four studs, or black Mother-of-pearl buttons, are optional. If not, buttons should be concealed. | Tails require a shirt with white pique or starched linen front bib. Collar must be Wing; detachable preferred. Cuffs must be Single Link, not folding French. Collar and cuffs must be of same material as shirt front. Body may be broadcloth or voile (for breathability). One to three studs acceptable, two preferred. |
| Bow-Tie | Black is most common. If a colored or patterned cummerbund is worn, the bow-tie must match. | The tie must be of white pique. Current fashion allows either straight or 'butterfly' versions. |
| Socks | Black Silk | Black Silk |
| Shoes | Black Patent Leather | Black Patent Leather |
| Hat | Black homburg-Winter. Grey fedora-Spring or Fall | Top-hat preferable. Black homburg permissible |
| Topcoat | Black, dark grey, navy. Velvet collar or cashmere | Black or dark grey. Velvet collar or cashmere |
| Gloves | Gray chamois | White chamois or doeskin |
| Accessories | Jewelry: Mother-of-pearl or black onyx studs. Cufflinks gold or to match studs. Handkerchief is white linen or silk; White silk scarf. | Jewelry: Studs, waistcoat buttons & cufflinks Mother-of-pearl (preferred), gold, or platinum. Handkerchief is white linen or silk; White silk scarf. |
| Proper Formal Dressing - Daytime | Summer Variations | |
|---|---|---|
| Article | Daytime Formal Wear | Changeable Articles |
| Jacket | The Cutaway (sometimes called Morning) Coat is most formal and should be of black or oxford grey worsted with peaked lapels. Plain edges are preferred as are horn buttons. A Sack Coat, the less formal version of the Cutaway, is used for less formal occasions. It should be single-breasted and black or oxford grey. | Though winter colors are always correct, in hot weather white linen is often used for formal (Black Tie) dinner jackets and, for less formal events, solid colors or subdued plaids. With white or colors, use only black trousers with satin stripe. The preferred summer hat for Black Tie, though the hat is quite optional in hot weather, is the Panama. Barrathea and worsted, preferred winter suit materials, are generally replaced with tropical worsted in the 7 1/2-8 oz range for summer wear. White "linen" jackets are often actually white tropical worsted. |
| Trousers | Trousers should be black and grey striped worsted without cuffs accompanying either coat. | |
| Waistcoat | For both the double-breasted waistcoat is of black worsted to match the coat or pearl-grey doeskin. | |
| Shirt | Accompanying the Cutaway, white with stiff pique bosom and single link cuffs. One stud preferred, two acceptable. Collar, wing or folding, depends on type of affair. With Sack Coat the shirt has soft bosom, French Cuffs, and folding collar. See "Tie" below. | |
| Bow-Tie | Cutaway: for weddings, ascot in MacClesfield silk worn with wing collar. For other occasions bow tie with wing or four-in-hand with either collar. With Sack Coat: Black or MacClesfield silk, four- in-hand | |
| Socks | Black or dark grey. Not heavy wool. | |
| Shoes | Black calf oxfords | |
| Hat | Cutaway: Black silk hat. Sack Coat: Black homburg | |
| Topcoat | Black or dark grey | |
| Gloves | Grey; any fine material | |
| Accessories | Jewelry: Mother-of-pearl pin with ascot. Gold cufflinks and stud(s). Handkerchief: white linen, monogrammed; White or grey silk scarf | |
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| Copyright © 1994-2007 Alex Kabbaz & Joelle Kelly | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
