Alexander
S. Kabbaz - Joelle M. Kelly ... & Sons
Fine Custom Clothier &
Haberdasher
Custom Made Ladies' Shirts & Blouses
They peer through the window trying to take a measure of our studio. Some turn away. Others
hesitate yet overcome fear and enter. Invariably they ask, "Do you make shirts and blouses for
women?", obviously hoping for an easy exit after the expected, "I'm sorry, we don't."
Yes, I'm describing our typical new woman client. Her most frequent lament is, "I've wanted to
have my shirts and blouses custom made for years, but I have no idea at all how to tell you what I
want."
Funny...I can always see those words coming. They follow directly every new lady client's first
words, "Let me see your styles."
Am I striking some responsive chords here? If so, you're not unlike the vast majority of our clients.
Why?
With gentlemen, it's different. They are trained from an early age by their father to purchase custom
clothing. Most arrive around the time they graduate from college... and stay for life. Their
education begins early in the mysteries of bespoke clothing and by the arrival of middle age, they've
usually become quite sophisticated in their selection and styling.
Women, on the other hand, are usually pushed in the direction of finding a ready-to-wear designer
who "works for them"; one whose basic patterns suit their figure type and who styling agrees with
their desired image. That's wonderful...until the designer goes through his seven year
metamorphosis, lowers his quality to increase profits, and changes his styling to "keep closer in
touch with today's trends".
The designer's clientele is expected to ignore the fact that his garments are marked up more than
1500% above cost. And to ignore the fact that bust measure, as the sole criteria around which to
size an entire shirt or blouse, makes as much sense as trying to determine your height by your hat
size. In return for ignoring all this, the client is allowed all this, the client is allowed the privilege
Permit me to set your fears to rest
once and for all. It's not essential
for you to tell me what you
want.
It's up to me to find out.
of paying a fortune for mass-market quality - which often bears not only scant relation to what she
sought in the first place ... but often the offending designer's name boldly emblazoned on the front
of the blouse. It's no small wonder she's unsure of herself when she first steps into our studio!
Permit me to set your fears to rest once and for all. It's not essential for you to tell me what you
want. It's up to me to find out.
We've decades of experience and know what questions need to be
asked; what concerns addressed. Our initial conversation will lead us toward the desired styling.
Combining favored elements from garments already in your wardrobe and styles in our vast
repertoire will take us further. Perhaps you've seen some new idea in a store or recent fashion
magazine which appeals to you.
In any case, a careful and considered combination of our ideas will result in the first try-on model.
From this first model, we'll build, change, add, subtract and rethink to elicit further models until an
optimum pattern is achieved.
In pleasant contrast to the frustrating search from shop to shop through row after row of ready-made
clothing is the statement made by most new clients after we've begun to work together. "I'm so
happy that I found your shop! It was ever so much easier than I'd imagined."
Getting Started...On To Specifics
In our Overview of custom-made ladies shirts and blouses we spoke generalities concerning our
methods. Now it's time to consider specific details.
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Fullness & Drape
The primary areas to be defined are the appropriate fullness and the desired drape of the garment.
Without first establishing these basic criteria, working on specific styling areas is to put the
proverbial cart before the horse.
Fullness, or ease over body measurements, can range from skin-tight to bloussant. Somewhat
mandated by design, fullness is a function of personal preference and body type.
Drape, or degree of crispness, runs the gamut from buttery soft to crinoline stiff. Integral to the
styling and the directly related to the type of fabric selected, drape can be varied as well by the
weight of fabric and the use of the thirty grades of interlinings we stock.
Having established these basics, we begin to specify each ingredient of the blouse. Rather that what
could be a multi-volume treatise expounding on the features of each design detail, we present
instead a listing of options. A careful study should enable you to select from each area for your first
Basic Pattern.
Some of the style details are entities unto themselves; most just general titles under which fall many
varieties. If you keep in mind the works, "to name but a few of the many options available', you'll
compensate for this writer's lack of space.
Collars
Basic "gentleman's" collar with band, bandless variations, shawl, notched, convertible, lapel, sailor,
tie, band, Mandarin, Nehru, Peter-pan, detachable, stand-up or lay-down, wrap-around, tie collar,
wing, pin, tab ... or none.
Necklines
When the choice is for no collar or certain collar types such as the shawl or tie we must determine
the depth, width, and shape of the neckline. Plunging, for example, can be round, vee, or oval and
a wide, high design could be square or rounded. Other options include jewel, faced, turned, laced,
ruffled.
Cuffs
Sleeves must end, usually in a cuff such as one, two or more buttons, French, convertible, overlap,
scalloped, western, link, or by simply hemming the bottom of the sleeve.
Pockets
You can design-your-own-shape of select from ours. Pockets can have side, top, or slanted openings
and can be pleated, with or without flap or button, set-in, patch or bellows. Variations include
double, pencil, glasses, hidden, and fake.
Openings
The first choice to be made is front, rear, or side opening. Next comes the type of opening. Most
common are the top center placket, French, and plain with inside facing which is meant to be worn
open. Others include the pullover, keyhole, fireman's, cossack, double-breasted, or jewel neckline.
Closures
Once opened, the shirt or blouse must then be closed using buttons-shown or hidden, hooks, loops,
frogs, snaps, zips, bows, belt, rhinestones or jewels.
Sleeves
The innumerable variations of sleeves include cuffed long sleeves, cuffless long sleeves, gathered,
puffed, butterfly, raglan, dolman, tied, short, short cap or, finally, sleeveless.
Front & Back Treatments
The list of Front & Back Treatments is endless. A few of the more popular include vertical, slanted
or horizontal stripes, bibbed or dickey fronts of which we stock more than 200 types, combinations
of multiple fabrics, pleatings, ruffling, laces, and fabric, leather, suede, alligator, or snakeskin
decorative inserts.
Yokes
Sometimes an integral part of front or back, a yoke is the shoulder piece. Options include split,
epaulets, western, pleated, one piece, shoulder pads.
More ideas...
Popular designs ofttimes commissioned include riding or show shirts, shirtdresses, tennis & golf
shirts & skirts, safari shirts, doctor's & lab coats, pajamas, robes, karate ghia and judo robes.
Accessories
One of the main attributes of custom made clothing is the ability to order coordinated accessories.
These include matching scarves, ties, belts, pocket squares and handkerchiefs in various sizes.
Custom Furnishings
In addition to blouses, we are known for custom furnishings including suspenders, alligator belts,
and small leather goods. For information see our booklet, Custom Made Furnishings.
Suits, Skirts, and Coats
Our Tailor-in-Residence is quite famous for his spectacular ladies custom clothing. More detailed
information can be found in our Custom-Tailored Suits and Topcoats brochure.
Fabric Selection
Having completed the fit of your Basic Pattern and the styling details of each model we move on
to the part we'll all enjoy most. The decision of which of our thousands of available fabrics you'll
want to try first... and in which of your styles... can be a great deal of fun if sensibly approached.
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You'll need to determine:
Wearing Season
Fall-Winter . Spring-Summer . Resort
+
Primary Wearing Occasions
Business . Formal or Casual Social . Sporting
+
Accompanying Clothing & Accessories
Clothing Color Family . Garment Styling . Fabric Type
=
Resulting Shirt or Blouse Fabric Guidelines
Color Range . Fabric Weave & Weight . Fabric Pattern or Solid
Creating a tree such as this for each outfit will successfully narrow the basis for each selection. We
can begin to show you fabrics and those you prefer will be swatched for you to take home and
coordinate with each outfit.
Cool, Comfortable, Classic Cotton
The most important point to remember is that our 3200 Swiss cottons are so fine that they have
attributes of both cotton and silk. Draping superbly yet remaining cool to wear, they have the body
of cotton and the softness of silk. For business wear and casual social or sport use, the excellence
of Swiss cotton is difficult to beat. Cottons are available in many weaves and weights including:
Broadcloth, voile, pique, poplin, gabardine, mesh, denim, flannel, jersey, twill, jacquard, brushed,
oxford, pinpoint
Lustrous, Luxurious, Silk
Silks offer three distinct positive characteristics not available in cotton. These are Color, Sheen, and
Hand. Silk takes dye colors with a brightness not obtainable in cotton. The natural sheen of a silk
yarn far outdistances even the best mercerization of cotton. Finally, the hand of silk fabrics is
unmatchable. On the other hand, silk is generally not washable unless specially woven. It has
nowhere near the durability of cotton and does not permit easy stain removal. In short, the care of
silk is difficult at best. Silk comes in many types:
Crepe de Chine*, Charmeuse*,Peau de Soie, chiffon, taffeta, Douppioni, shantung, broadcloth, twill,
jacquard, damask
*single, double, quadruple weights
Other Shirting Fabrics
The better varieties of the many other available shirtings include:
Linen, Wool challis, cashmere, ultrasuede, silk & cashmere, wool & cotton, microfibre, velvets,
Vyella, wool & cashmere
The Alexander S. Kabbaz Method
Designing Your Basic Pattern
Perhaps designing is the wrong term. Planning and building for the future would be a more apt
description. We usually create a Basic Pattern of moderate fullness in what is called the "man-
tailored" style. The front closure will be normal, the shirt will have cuffed sleeves, and there will
be a collar band.
The reasons for this are many. A few of the more important ones include: determining how high
we can make the armhole yet retain comfort, the ease over neck size, correct shoulder slope,
balance, length of sleeve, and placement of darts, if any, for bust and shirt back. Should you desire
only one style and be certain that you would not want to differ, we would skip this and work directly
with the final style. In any event, the process works as follows. References to "shirt" mean shirt
or blouse.
1 On your first visit, we'll chat for a while in order that I might gain a proper sense of your
requirements. We'll discuss styling, fullness and drape while I take some 35 measurements and
notes.
2 Later, I'll design, strike, and cut your individual pattern. This will incorporate the basic fit we
discussed and is the springboard from which we'll develop other styles. I'll use this pattern to cut,
stitch, and launder your first sample which tests our ideas and my measures.
3 A week after your first visit you'll return to try-on this muslin. I'll pin-fit while we discuss how
well I captured your desires. Then I shall alter the pattern to reflect our discussion and pin fitting.
4. If the test was reasonably correct, we'll craft your first style pattern. If you need more than one
style, we'll create a pattern and cut a cotton try-on shirt for each. You will be asked to wear this at
home, have it washed by your usual launderer, and come in to show me the results. I'll make final
notations. If the adjustments are more that minute, we'll repeat this step.
5 We've arrived at a "perfect" pattern and shall now cut one shirt of each style from your order.
This we'll send and ask you to wear, have cleaned, and wear again. We would prefer that you then
stop by so we might wee our final creation and to confirm your approval or request minor
adjustments.
6 From the final adjusted patterns, your first order of six will be cut, sewn, hand-monogrammed
if desired, and delivered in about three weeks. Your pattern is then permanently kept on file.
Before you place a subsequent order, I'd prefer to see you in at least one shirt or blouse of each style.
Over time, fine fabrics tend to shape and adapt themselves to the wearer. Only after this has been
fully accomplished can I make the final little nips and tucks in your pattern. Nipping & tucking,
by the way, remain an ongoing process. After all, our only advertising is the answer you give to the
question, "Where did you get that blouse?"
You can either call to have us send current fabric samples for your perusal or instruct us to repeat
previous selection. Be sure to inform us if size or other changes are necessary and your order will
be crafted from your permanently filed pattern. You can stop by any time to update your patter due
to a change in size or to work up a new style. Since we already have your Basic Pattern, new styles
can be created much more rapidly. Reorders normally require three to six weeks.
Deliveries,
quickest in January, February, & September, require more time in busy seasons.
1 Rush Service: Should time be short or you be in town only temporarily and you are willing to
make yourself available for fittings, this entire process can be completed in just a couple of days.
2 Minimum Order: Our minimum Initial Order is six comprised of a maximum of two pattern
styles. Each additional style requires three shirts. Reorders from existing patterns without style
changes may be for any quantity
