Alexander S. Kabbaz - Joelle M. Kelly ... & Sons
Fine Custom Clothier
& Haberdasher

Reprieve for a Dying Art

Once Upon a Time...

Why this tome?The Showroom In this new Milennium, we live in a pragmatic world which has taken Henry Ford's maxim of mass production to extremes.
Caveat Emptor is the rule; automation the name of the game; quality, gentility, and honor merely fond remembrances of days gone by. The Japanese have developed a robot which sews a shirt without a seamstress. The French have contributed a machine capable of cutting the entire garment. Why, the only need for humans is one to lay a piece of cloth on the cutting table and another to wear the finished shirt! Sadly, most all 'Custom' shirtmakers the world 'round have opted to forego quality in favor of 'progress'; vertical integration with fabric merchants rather than independent creativity.
Hence, we feel the need to offer these many words of our salute to the way things once were, the way they should be, and the way they shall remain here for as long as we continue to practice our art. We shall create couture custom shirts, blouses, classic furnishings, and the finest of accessories for people who appreciate these lost arts. We shall craft with only quality and good taste in mind. And we shall offer our wares with honor and dignity and pride.

A Most Unique Adventure . . .
       In Fine Old-world Craftsmanship

To Alexander S. Kabbaz and his wife & partner Joelle M. Kelly, shirts are their art ... though she might arguably claim a 'multi-art-talentedness' lacking in Kabbaz by offering to also hand-knit you a sweater. Each a creation of pride; no two ever quite alike. Every creation is a child of painstaking labor. That's why your order is accompanied by detailed instructions for proper laundering and pressing. Concern for these children does not stop at our workroom door but continues long after they leave our shop. That's why, when you bring our shirt 'home' years from now for new collar, new cuffs, and a bit of tender encouragement from Mom & Pop, the result will be virtually a new shirt. That's why, some 60 years after his grandmother rendered her first shirting design for Sulka, Alex still creates fewer than a dozen shirts each week. That's why, when you come here for the first time, we'll fit you two, four, six times... whatever is necessary to attain the perfect fit. To quote Kabbaz, "The only client I wish to serve is a client for life. And that's why we offer the simplest of guarantees: If it is not 'perfect', we shall make it so!"

'A Most Unique Adventure...'

No, this isn't a reference to an African Safari, notwithstanding that we send you off on one stylishly and functionally attired. Nor are we speaking of flying your private jet, competing at martial arts, or going off to war... although we have dressed clients for all of these and many more. The Adventure begins with our depth of insight. Why? Attire speaks before you've had the chance to utter even your first word. Your appearance is the window through which your are first viewed by your peers. The most important result of our initial consultation lies not in the extensive series of measures we place in your file, but in what we garner about your personality, your profession, your taste, and your station in life. Important is not that particular fabric which offers us the greatest profit. Important is the suitability of your wardrobe. This can be considered only if we gain a comprehensive understanding of who you are. Important lies not only in our complimenting your wiser selections and in offering you others from which to choose, but also in having the temerity to suggest that something you might want would be entirely inappropriate for you. The image you should portray is the responsibility we wish to accept.

'...Fine Old-world Craftsmanship'

How do we do all of this and remain successful? It's quite simple, actually. Our charges are set from a viewpoint which allows us to concentrate our efforts solely on the caliber of our work. Truthfully, pricing is the easy part. Difficult is when we sit down and carefully consider each one of the more than 25,000 individual stitches we make in some 12 miles of Egyptian-grown, Swiss-woven long staple cotton yarn, to which we hand-sew 14-20 New Zealand-grown Mother-of-Pearl buttons. Add seven or eight hours of tailoring, a hefty dose of creativity, a lifetime of pride and you get...one shirt! We could go on for pages about our complete individual pattern, an entirely hand-cut and sewn garment, the magnifying loupe through which we inspect the fabric we shrink as necessary before cutting, and the many hundreds of other techniques we use to insure the perfection of our craft. However, we consider this not only proprietary but also firmly believe that this is our responsibility. Suffice it to say, thanks to our many loyal clients, we are happy to have the ability to direct our skill and attention solely toward the quality of our shirts. Please feel free to come in and watch us work... any time.

The Kabbaz-Kelly Method

New Clients-First Order

Kabbaz explains the initial work as follows:
1    On your first visit, we'll chat for a while in order that I might gain a proper sense of your needs. Then we'll discuss styling and fit while I take some 35 measures and notes.
2    Later, I'll design, strike, and cut your individual basic pattern. This will incorporate the styling details we discussed and is the springboard from which we'll develop your wardrobe during ensuing years. I'll use this pattern to cut, stitch, and launder your first sample which tests my ideas and measures.
3    A week or so after our initial session, you'll return at our mutual convenience to try-on this test shirt. I'll pin-fit and see how it meshes with our ideas. From our discussion on how well I captured your desires, I'll alter your pattern.
4    If the test was reasonably correct, we'll then craft an actual shirt from your order. This you will wear and have washed by your usual laundress or laundry. Either call to confirm approval of drop in to show me the results which I'll use to make final minute adjustments.
5    From the final adjusted pattern, your first order of six shirts will be cut, sewn, monogrammed if desired, and delivered in about three to five weeks. Your pattern is then permanently kept on file.

Before your place a subsequent order, I'd like to see you in the shirt you've found most pleasing. Fine cotton tends, over time, to shape and adapt itself to the wearer. It is only after that has been accomplished that I can make the final little nips and tucks to your permanent pattern. This, by the way, remains an ongoing process. Should more than four or five years pass between your actual visits to the shop, I'll most probably refuse to make any more shirts until I see you in a recent creation! After all, our only advertising is the answer you give to the question, "Where did you get that shirt?"

Previous Clients - Reorders

You can either call to have us send current fabric samples for your perusal or to instruct us to repeat previous shirt selections, or you can stop by any time. Be sure to inform us if any changes are necessary and your order will be crafted from your permanently filed pattern. Reorders normally require four to six weeks. Quickest deliveries are made in January, February, and September.

Our Repertoire, Stocked Shirting Fabrics

Fine Egyptian Cottons

In excess of 25,000 selections
woven of Egyptian-grown
Long Staple 2x2 yarns in 2x2
100s, 120s, 140s, 160s, 170s, 180s or 200s

 

Woven by the premier mills
of Switzerland, Italy, and pre-1990s France,
as well as pre-1960 British
woven antique fabrics

 

Available in Broadcloth, Voile,
Poplin, Duck, Twill, Denim,
Gabardine, Jersey, Mesh, Batiste,
Herringbone, Oxford, Royal Oxford,
End-on-End, Dobby, Jacquard,
Pique, and Flannel weaves

 

 

Luxurious Silks

bulletThe finest qualities of Switzerland, Italy, and the Orient
bulletBroadcloth, Habutae, Crepe de Chine, or Charmeuse weaves
bulletSingle, double, or quadruple weights on request

Other Fabric Selections

bulletVyella, Linen, Wool, Wool Gabardine
bulletLinen & Cotton, Wool & Cotton
bulletCashmere, Silk & Cashmere

Our Repertoire:
Shirts, Blouses, & More

Daily, Weekend, & Specialty Wear

bulletDress, Fashion, Formal, Tuxedo, Sport, Driving, Clerical,
Aviator, Cossack, Military, & Safari Shirts
bulletShirtjackets, Laboratory & Doctors', Coats,
Western & English Riding Shirts, Karate Ghia

Other Attire and Furnishings

bulletRobes, Pajamas, Sleepcoats, Boxer Shorts,
bulletTies, Silk Braces, Bow Ties, Ascots,
bulletHandkerchiefs, Scarves, Pocket Squares,
bulletDore Dore & Pantherella Socks, Zimmerli Undershorts, Smedley Polo Shirts
bulletBelts and Wallets

Details - Basic Collarstyles

bulletPoint, Button-down, English Spread
bulletRound, London Club, Two Point, Tab
bulletMandarin, Nehru, Detachable, Tie-collar
bulletCapri, Sport, Wing, Pin with Eyelets
bulletShawl, Pajama,... to name but a few!

Collars & Tools

Details - Basic Cuffstyles

bulletOne, Two, or Three Button
bulletFrench, Link, Convertible, English
bulletHexagonal, Point-Overlap
bulletWestern, Round, Half-Round

Details...And More Details

bulletAntique Buttons, Gold Cuff Links
bulletHand Pleating
bulletGold & Sterling Belt Buckles
bulletMulti-Fabric Combinations
bulletCossack, Fireman's Front, Dolman & Raglan Sleeves
bulletPullover Fronts, Linen Collars
bulletContrast Stitching, Hand Monogramming

 

     

Shirt Refurbishing

When one of our shirts begins to age in the collar and cuffs, it is ofttimes economical to change the offending parts. However, the great majority of time we invest lies in the exhausting search for matching fabric. Our present stock of remnants exceeds 15,000 patterns! Therefore, we undertake this quest twice annually as per the schedule below. Storage space is limited; we appreciate receiving shirts only during the scheduled times. Shirt refurbishing will be done properly (both collar and cuffs) or not at all. If we are unable to locate a particular fabric for matching, we shall use white cloth unless you specifically instruct us not to. Should a shirt not be worth repairing due to the condition of other parts, we shall discard it unless you specifically instruct us not to.

Schedule of Charges and Repair Periods

Shirts received January 1 - January 15 will be returned by September-October
Shirts received June 15 - June 30 will be returned by January-February.

 

     

Ready-Made Shirts

Any of our fabrics can be made into standard rack-sized shirts or blouses as gifts for your special acquaintances. A selection of collars, cuffs and monogramming are available. Sizing ranges are:
Gents: 13/32 to 21/39        Ladies: 4-22        Boys & Girls: 1 - 8

Pricing is the same as for bespoke shirts but there are no minimums.

 

     

Terms of Business

The ShowroomOur minimum initial order is Eight Shirts. Smaller repeat orders will be taken from regular clients on a time available basis only. For Regular Clients, we will make one or more Formal Shirts with or without a regular order.
New clients shall deposit $3,000 upon taking of measurements and pay the balance due upon approval of the final sample shirt. Previous clients shall deposit 50% upon ordering, with the balance payable upon delivery of the finished work. Later on, a simpler arrangement may be offered. We accept checks, U.S. currency, Mastercard, Visa, American Express and PayPal. Orders, once cut, may not be modified or canceled under any circumstances.
Fitting New Clients is our responsibility. Should your measurements change or should you desire any alteration in fit at a later date, it is absolutely your responsibility to so inform us! Otherwise, lack of this knowledge will obviously cause us to cut your order without alteration of your permanent pattern. Should we for any reason make changes to your pattern, we shall normally cut one shirt from your order and send it for your approval. Once you approve the change, we'll then proceed with the remainder. Should you decide later on that you want further changes, such alterations will be charged at our prevailing rates.
We take immense pride in our work. Each of our shirts is entirely hand-made, from the holes drilled in the buttons to the final stitch in the final period in your initials. As a result, each shirt is slightly different. Our credo, therefore, is quite simple. If it is not perfect, we shall make it so.

     

Suits and Coats

Suits, trousers, skirts, sport jackets, and topcoats are garments which are properly done by tailors.  A shirtmaker's challenge lies in properly conforming the garment to fit your physical characteristics. A tailor, on the other hand, has the luxury of using the padding inherent in an outerwear garment to either conceal or enhance various elements as desired.

We have a number of tailors to whom we can send you depending upon your requirements once we have established a working relationship.

     

Please send e-mail to: AskCustom@CustomShirt1.com
with questions or comments about custom clothing.

WANT TO KNOW MORE?

Kabbaz-Kelly

Custom Shirts
Zimmerli

 Underwear
Zimmerli

 Intimates
Zimmerli

PJs & Boxers
Zimmerli

Nightwear
Cashmere &

Luxury Socks
Pantherella

Women's
Pantherella

Men's
Seaward&Stearn

Ties & Pockets
Zimmerli

Outerwear
Cashmere

Scarves
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Tel: 866-267-7909 Fax: 866-267-0138 Int'l +01-631-267-7909 403 Abrahams Path Box 594 - Amagansett-East Hampton, NY 11930-0594
 
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Copyright © 1994-2007  Alex Kabbaz & Joelle Kelly